A chronic pro-inflammatory environment contributes to the physiopathology of actinic lentigines.

Actinic lentigines (AL) or age spots, are skin hyperpigmented lesions associated with age and chronic sun exposure. To better understand the physiopathology of AL, we have characterized the inflammation response in AL of European and Japanese volunteers. Gene expression profile showed that in both populations, 10% of the modulated genes in AL versus adjacent non lesional skin (NL), i.e. 31 genes, are associated with inflammation/immune process. A pro-inflammatory environment in AL is strongly suggested by the activation of the arachidonic acid cascade and the plasmin pathway leading to prostaglandin production, along with the decrease of anti-inflammatory cytokines and the identification of inflammatory upstream regulators. Furthermore, in line with the over-expression of genes associated with the recruitment and activation of immune cells, immunostaining on skin sections revealed a significant infiltration of CD68+ macrophages and CD4+ T-cells in the dermis of AL. Strikingly, investigation of infiltrated macrophage subsets evidenced a significant increase of pro-inflammatory CD80+/CD68+ M1 macrophages in AL compared to NL. In conclusion, a chronic inflammation, sustained by pro-inflammatory mediators and infiltration of immune cells, particularly pro-inflammatory M1 macrophages, takes place in AL. This pro-inflammatory loop should be thus broken to normalize skin and improve the efficacy of age spot treatment.

Identification and functional validation of SRC and RAPGEF1 as new direct targets of miR-203, involved in regulation of epidermal homeostasis.

The epidermis is mostly composed of keratinocytes and forms a protecting barrier against external aggressions and dehydration. Epidermal homeostasis is maintained by a fine-tuned balance between keratinocyte proliferation and differentiation. In the regulation of this process, the keratinocyte-specific miR-203 microRNA is of the outmost importance as it promotes differentiation, notably by directly targeting and down-regulating mRNA expression of genes involved in keratinocyte proliferation, such as ΔNp63, Skp2 and Msi2. We aimed at identifying new miR-203 targets involved in the regulation of keratinocyte proliferation/differentiation balance. To this end, a transcriptome analysis of human primary keratinocytes overexpressing miR-203 was performed and revealed that miR-203 overexpression inhibited functions like proliferation, mitosis and cell cycling, and activated differentiation, apoptosis and cell death. Among the down-regulated genes, 24 putative target mRNAs were identified and 8 of them were related to proliferation. We demonstrated that SRC and RAPGEF1 were direct targets of miR-203. Moreover, both were down-regulated during epidermal morphogenesis in a 3D reconstructed skin model, while miR-203 was up-regulated. Finally silencing experiments showed that SRC or RAPGEF1 contributed to keratinocyte proliferation and regulated their differentiation. Preliminary results suggest their involvement in skin carcinoma hyperproliferation. Altogether this data indicates that RAPGEF1 and SRC could be new mediators of miR-203 in epidermal homeostasis regulation.

A precise analysis of the relative contribution of UVA1 and visible light colour domains in solar light-induced skin pigmentation.

BACKGROUND: Solar light induces or aggravates hyperpigmentation issues. The contribution of UVA1, as well as visible light (VL), especially high-energy blue-violet visible (HEV) light, is now clearly established. OBJECTIVES: This work aimed at determining the relative contribution of UVA1, HEV and VL wavelength bands and their sub-domains in pigmentation induction. METHODS: Two clinical studies using solar simulators equipped with specific bandpass physical filters were carried out. Volunteers (FSPT III-IV) were exposed on the back to UVA1 + HEV (350-450 nm), UVA1 (350-400 nm), HEV (400-450 nm) or part of UVA1 + HEV (370-450 nm) in Study 1 (n = 27) and to VL (400-700 nm), HEV (400-450 nm), Blue (400-500 nm), Green (500-600 nm) and Green+Red (500-700 nm) domains in Study 2 (n = 25). Pigmentation level was assessed by visual scoring and colorimetry at different time points postexposure, up to Day 43. RESULTS: Induced pigmentation was detected in all exposed conditions, peaking at 2 h and thereafter progressively decreasing but remaining persistent up to Day 43. In Study 1, UVA1 showed an additive effect with HEV, with a significant contribution coming from the Longest UVA1 rays (370-400 nm). Study 2 demonstrated that 24 h postexposure, the Blue domain accounted for 71% of VL-induced pigmentation, the HEV one for 47%, the Green one for 37% and the Green+Red one for 36%, confirming no significant effect for Red light. CONCLUSIONS: Altogether, these results underline the need for UVA1 photoprotection up to 400 nm and highlight the importance of protecting the skin from solar VL wavelengths and especially from HEV, Blue and Green light, to limit induced pigmentation.

Induced pluripotent stem cells reprogramming overcomes technical limitations for highly pigmented adult melanocyte amplification and integration in 3D skin model.

Understanding pigmentation regulations taking into account the original skin color type is important to address pigmentary disorders. Biological models including adult melanocytes from different phenotypes allow to perform fine-tuned explorative studies and support discovery of treatments adapted to populations' skin color. However, technical challenges arise when trying to not only isolate but also amplify melanocytes from highly pigmented adult skin. To bypass the initial isolation and growth of cutaneous melanocytes, we harvested and expanded fibroblasts from light and dark skin donors and reprogrammed them into iPSC, which were then differentiated into melanocytes. The resulting melanocyte populations displayed high purity, genomic stability, and strong proliferative capacity, the latter being a critical parameter for dark skin cells. The iPSC-derived melanocyte strains expressed lineage-specific markers and could be successfully integrated into reconstructed skin equivalent models, revealing pigmentation status according to the native phenotype. In both monolayer cultures and 3D skin models, the induced melanocytes demonstrated responsiveness to promelanogenic stimuli. The data demonstrate that the iPSC-derived melanocytes with high proliferative capacity maintain their pigmentation genotype and phenotypic properties up to a proper integration into 3D skin equivalents, even for highly pigmented cells.

The Damaging Effects of Long UVA (UVA1) Rays: A Major Challenge to Preserve Skin Health and Integrity.

Within solar ultraviolet (UV) light, the longest UVA1 wavelengths, with significant and relatively constant levels all year round and large penetration properties, produce effects in all cutaneous layers. Their effects, mediated by numerous endogenous chromophores, primarily involve the generation of reactive oxygen species (ROS). The resulting oxidative stress is the major mode of action of UVA1, responsible for lipid peroxidation, protein carbonylation, DNA lesions and subsequent intracellular signaling cascades. These molecular changes lead to mutations, apoptosis, dermis remodeling, inflammatory reactions and abnormal immune responses. The altered biological functions contribute to clinical consequences such as hyperpigmentation, inflammation, photoimmunosuppression, sun allergies, photoaging and photocancers. Such harmful impacts have also been reported after the use of UVA1 phototherapy or tanning beds. Furthermore, other external aggressors, such as pollutants and visible light (Vis), were shown to induce independent, cumulative and synergistic effects with UVA1 rays. In this review, we synthetize the biological and clinical effects of UVA1 and the complementary effects of UVA1 with pollutants or Vis. The identified deleterious biological impact of UVA1 contributing to clinical consequences, combined with the predominance of UVA1 rays in solar UV radiation, constitute a solid rational for the need for a broad photoprotection, including UVA1 up to 400 nm.

Actinic lentigines from Japanese and European volunteers share similar impaired biological functions.

BACKGROUND: Hyperpigmented spots develop earlier and with a higher incidence in Asian individuals compared with Europeans. Although actinic lentigines (AL) are very common, the biological events underlying their formation remain ill-defined. OBJECTIVE: AL from Japanese volunteers were characterized through morphological and gene expression analyses. Data were then compared with published data on European volunteers. METHODS: AL on hands were selected through dermoscopic imaging and pattern scoring in Japanese women. Skin biopsies of AL and adjacent non-lesional (NL) skin were processed for histology and gene expression profiling. Japanese and European studies were compared after harmonizing the data using the same mathematical and statistical methods. RESULTS: Histologically, AL from Japanese individuals revealed deep epidermal invaginations with melanin accumulation in the depth of epidermal rete ridges. Transcriptomic data identified 245 genes differentially expressed in AL versus NL skin samples, associated with the different skin compartments and multiple functional families and biological processes, such as epidermal homeostasis, extracellular matrix organization and ion binding/transmembrane transport. Strikingly, melanogenesis-related genes were not significantly modulated in AL compared with NL skin. Comparison of the molecular profiles of Japanese and European AL showed that a huge majority of genes were modulated in the same way, recapitulating the overall biological alterations. CONCLUSION: AL from Japanese volunteers exhibited morphological and molecular alterations of the whole skin structure with impairment of multiple biological functions similar to that found in European women. These findings will contribute to the development of efficient treatments of AL lesions.

Sunscreens with the New MCE Filter Cover the Whole UV Spectrum: Improved UVA1 Photoprotection In Vitro and in a Randomized Controlled Trial.

BACKGROUND: UVA1 rays (340-400 nm) contribute to carcinogenesis, immunosuppression, hyperpigmentation, and aging. Current sunscreen formulas lack sufficient absorption in the 370-400 nm wavelengths range. Recently, a new UVA1 filter, Methoxypropylamino Cyclohexenylidene Ethoxyethylcyanoacetate (MCE) exhibiting a peak of absorption at 385 nm, was approved by the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety for use in sunscreen products. These studies evaluated, in a three-dimensional skin model and in vivo, the protection afforded by state-of-the-art sunscreen formulations enriched with MCE. TRIAL DESIGN: This study is a monocentric, double-blinded, randomized, and comparative trial. This study is registered at ClinicalTrials.gov with the identification number NCT04865094. METHODS: The efficacy of sunscreens with MCE was compared with that of reference formulas. In a three-dimensional skin model, histology, protein, and gene expression were analyzed. In the clinical trial, pigmentation was analyzed in 19 volunteers using colorimetric measurements and visual scoring. RESULTS: MCE addition in reference formulas enlarged the profile of absorption up to 400 nm; reduced UVA1-induced dermal and epidermal alterations at cellular, biochemical, and molecular levels; and decreased UVA1-induced pigmentation. CONCLUSIONS: Addition of MCE absorber in sunscreen formulations leads to full coverage of UV spectrum and improved UVA1 photoprotection. The data support benefits in the long term on sun-induced consequences, especially those related to public health care issues.

Photo-aging evaluation - In vitro biological endpoints combined with collagen density assessment with multi-photon microscopy.

BACKGROUND: Ultraviolet exposure has profound effect on the dermal connective tissue of human skin. OBJECTIVE: We aimed to develop and validate an evaluation method/methodology using a full-thickness reconstructed skin model, to assess the anti-photoaging efficacy of cosmetic ingredients and sunscreen formulas by blending multi relevant biological endpoints including the newly developed dermal collagen quantification method with Multi-photon microscopy. METHODS: The response of ex vivo human skin to UVA exposure was first characterized with multiphoton microscopy. Reconstructed full-thickness skin models was then used to reproduce the data and to create a proof-of-concept study by treating the models with sunscreen prototypes A or B, which differ on their UVA absorption properties, and systemic Vitamin C (Vit C). After exposure to UVA, the collagen density was quantified via multiphoton microscopy with automatic imaging processing. Histology, fibroblasts number, metalloprotease 1 (MMP1) secretion were also assessed. RESULTS: UVA exposure induced pronounced reduction in collagen density and increased MMP1 secretion within both ex vivo human skin and reconstructed skin. Histological damage and fibroblast disappearance was observed with reconstructed skin. Within the proof-of-concept study prototype B, possessing higher UVA filtration, gave better protection than prototype A on the UV associated biological markers, and association with Vit C boosted sunscreen formula efficacy. CONCLUSIONS: The photoaging evaluation method, consists of multi biological markers as well as dermal collagen quantification, is a relevant mean to assess the pre-clinical efficacy of anti-photoaging ingredients and sunscreen products. This approach is also beneficial for evaluating the efficacy of sunscreens and photoprotective ingredients.

Simultaneous NAD(P)H and FAD fluorescence lifetime microscopy of long UVA-induced metabolic stress in reconstructed human skin.

Solar ultraviolet longwave UVA1 exposure of human skin has short-term consequences at cellular and molecular level, leading at long-term to photoaging. Following exposure, reactive oxygen species (ROS) are generated, inducing oxidative stress that might impair cellular metabolic activity. However, the dynamic of UVA1 impact on cellular metabolism remains unknown because of lacking adequate live imaging techniques. Here we assess the UVA1-induced metabolic stress response in reconstructed human skin with multicolor two-photon fluorescence lifetime microscopy (FLIM). Simultaneous imaging of nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD(P)H) and flavin adenine dinucleotide (FAD) by wavelength mixing allows quantifying cellular metabolism in function of NAD(P)+/NAD(P)H and FAD/FADH2 redox ratios. After UVA1 exposure, we observe an increase of fraction of bound NAD(P)H and decrease of fraction of bound FAD indicating a metabolic switch from glycolysis to oxidative phosphorylation or oxidative stress possibly correlated to ROS generation. NAD(P)H and FAD biomarkers have unique temporal dynamic and sensitivity to skin cell types and UVA1 dose. While the FAD biomarker is UVA1 dose-dependent in keratinocytes, the NAD(P)H biomarker shows no dose dependence in keratinocytes, but is directly affected after exposure in fibroblasts, thus reflecting different skin cells sensitivities to oxidative stress. Finally, we show that a sunscreen including a UVA1 filter prevents UVA1 metabolic stress response from occurring.

NK Cell and Fibroblast-Mediated Regulation of Skin Squamous Cell Carcinoma Invasion by CLEC2A Is Compromised in Xeroderma Pigmentosum.

The ability of cancer cells to invade and disseminate can be affected by components of the surrounding microenvironment. To identify dermal components that regulate the growth of epidermal carcinomas, we studied the genetic disease called xeroderma pigmentosum that bears mutations in genes involved in the nucleotide excision repair of DNA. Patients with xeroderma pigmentosum are more prone to develop cutaneous tumors than the general population and their dermal fibroblasts display the features of dermal cancer-associated fibroblasts, which promote the invasion of keratinocytes. Here, we report that 3-dimensional dermal cultures of fibroblasts from healthy donors but not from patients with xeroderma pigmentosum complementation group C express CLEC2A, which is the ligand of the activating NK cell receptor NKp65. A similar loss of CLEC2A was observed in sporadic dermal cancer-associated fibroblasts and upon the culture of fibroblasts with cutaneous squamous cell carcinoma-conditioned medium. Using an innovative 3-dimensional organotypic skin culture model that contain NK cells in addition to fibroblasts and squamous cell carcinoma cells, we unveiled a key role of CLEC2A that orchestrates a crosstalk between fibroblasts and NK cells, thereby leading to the control of squamous cell carcinoma invasion. These findings indicate that CLEC2A-expressing dermal fibroblasts play a major role in immune surveillance of the skin.

Keratinocytic Malfunction as a Trigger for the Development of Solar Lentigines.

INTRODUCTION: Solar lentigines (SL) affect chronically UV-radiated skin. Treatment is often refractory. Deeper knowledge on its pathogenesis might improve therapeutic effects. MATERIAL AND METHODS: Morphological characterization of 190 SL was performed and epidermal thickness, pigment distribution, dendricity, and cornification grade were measured. Immunoreactivity was investigated using Melan A, Tyrosinase, MITF, p53, and CD20, as well as Notch1 using immunofluorescence. RESULTS: We found 2 groups of histological patterns, i.e., either acanthotic or atrophic epidermis. Lesions with basket-woven cornification and atrophic epidermis were observed in 6 out of 9 and 14 out of 16 cases from the face, respectively. Consistency of areas with a high pigmentation was observed in 96-97% of the cases. Hyperpigmentation grade and acanthosis or cornification disorders correlated positively in 88.5% of the cases. Overexpressed of p53 was found in 19 out of 20 lesions, presenting in a scattered distribution. A significant correlation of p53 and acanthosis (p = 0.003) and cornification grade (p = 0.0008) was observed. Notch1 was expressed in all SL, with the highest immunoreactivity in atrophic facial lesions. Lesions from the hands expressed Notch1 mainly in acanthotic areas with elongated rete ridges and less compact cornification. DISCUSSION: We suggest that Notch1-dependent keratinocytic malfunction causes the development of SL. Consequently, hyperpigmentation would be a result and not the primary cause of the pathogenesis. Confirmation of these findings might have clinical implications as hitherto treatment has mainly focused on melanocytes and pigmentation and not on the proliferation/differentiation balance of keratinocytes.

In Vitro Skin Models for the Evaluation of Sunscreen-Based Skin Photoprotection: Molecular Methodologies and Opportunities.

Identifying and understanding the biological events that occur following ultraviolet (UV) exposure are mandatory to elucidate the biological and clinical consequences of sun exposure, and to provide efficient and adequate photoprotection strategies. The main UVinduced biological features (markers related to sunburn, cancer, photoaging immunosuppression, pigmentation), characterized in human skin in vivo, could be reproduced in adapted models of reconstructed skin in vitro, attesting their high relevance in the field of photobiology. In turn, 3D skin models were useful to discover precise biological pathways involved in UV response and were predictive of in vivo situation. Although they did not follow a strict validation process for the determination of protection factors, they enabled to evidence important concepts in photoprotection. Indeed, the use of reconstructed skin model highlighted the importance of broad spectrum sunscreen use to protect essential cellular functions, and biologically proved that SPF value was not predictive of the level of protection in the UVA wavelength domain. New biological approaches, such as transcriptomic or proteomic studies as well as quantitative and qualitative determination of DNA damage, will indisputably increase the added value of such systems for sunscreen efficiency evaluation.

Clinical and Biological Characterization of Skin Pigmentation Diversity and Its Consequences on UV Impact.

Skin color diversity is the most variable and noticeable phenotypic trait in humans resulting from constitutive pigmentation variability. This paper will review the characterization of skin pigmentation diversity with a focus on the most recent data on the genetic basis of skin pigmentation, and the various methodologies for skin color assessment. Then, melanocyte activity and amount, type and distribution of melanins, which are the main drivers for skin pigmentation, are described. Paracrine regulators of melanocyte microenvironment are also discussed. Skin response to sun exposure is also highly dependent on color diversity. Thus, sensitivity to solar wavelengths is examined in terms of acute effects such as sunburn/erythema or induced-pigmentation but also long-term consequences such as skin cancers, photoageing and pigmentary disorders. More pronounced sun-sensitivity in lighter or darker skin types depending on the detrimental effects and involved wavelengths is reviewed.

Identification of chronological and photoageing-associated microRNAs in human skin.

MicroRNAs are short non-coding RNAs that play key roles in regulating biological processes. In this study, we explored effects of chronological and photoageing on the miRNome of human skin. To this end, biopsies were collected from sun-exposed (outer arm, n = 45) and sun-protected (inner arm, n = 45) skin from fair-skinned (phototype II/III) healthy female volunteers of three age groups: young, 18-25 years, middle age, 40-50 years and aged, > 70 years. Strict inclusion criteria were used for photoageing scoring and for chronological ageing. Microarray analysis revealed that chronological ageing had minor effect on the human skin miRNome. In contrast, photoageing had a robust impact on miRNAs, and a set of miRNAs differentially expressed between sun-protected and sun-exposed skin of the young and aged groups was identified. Upregulation of miR-383, miR-145 and miR-34a and downregulation of miR-6879, miR-3648 and miR-663b were confirmed using qRT-PCR in sun-exposed skin compared with sun-protected skin. qRT-PCR analysis revealed that miR-383, miR-34a and miR-134 were differentially expressed in all three age groups both in chronological and photoageing, suggesting a synergetic effect of intrinsic and extrinsic ageing on their expression. In conclusion, our study identifies a unique miRNA signature which may contribute to skin ageing.

Melanocytes Sense Blue Light and Regulate Pigmentation through Opsin-3.

The shorter wavelengths of the visible light spectrum have been recently reported to induce a long-lasting hyperpigmentation but only in melano-competent individuals. Here, we provide evidence showing that OPN3 is the key sensor in melanocytes responsible for hyperpigmentation induced by the shorter wavelengths of visible light. The melanogenesis induced through OPN3 is calcium dependent and further activates CAMKII followed by CREB, extracellular signal-regulated kinase, and p38, leading to the phosphorylation of MITF and ultimately to the increase of the melanogenesis enzymes: tyrosinase and dopachrome tautomerase. Furthermore, blue light induces the formation of a protein complex that we showed to be formed by tyrosinase and dopachrome tautomerase. This multimeric tyrosinase/tyrosinase-related protein complex is mainly formed in dark-skinned melanocytes and induces a sustained tyrosinase activity, thus explaining the long-lasting hyperpigmentation that is observed only in skin type III and higher after blue light irradiation. OPN3 thus functions as the sensor for visible light pigmentation. OPN3 and the multimeric tyrosinase/tyrosinase-related protein complex induced after its activation appear as new potential targets for regulating melanogenesis but also to protect dark skins against blue light in physiological conditions and in pigmentary disorders.

Melanosome Distribution in Keratinocytes in Different Skin Types: Melanosome Clusters Are Not Degradative Organelles.

The melanosome pattern was characterized systematically in keratinocytes in situ in highly, moderately, and lightly pigmented human skin, classified according to the individual typological angle, a colorimetric measure of skin color phenotype. Electron microscopy of skin samples showed qualitatively and quantitatively that in highly pigmented skin, although melanosomes are mostly isolated and distributed throughout the entire epidermis, clusters are also observed in the basal layer. In moderately and lightly pigmented skin, melanosomes are concentrated in the first layer of the epidermis, isolated-but for most of them, grouped as clusters of melanocores delimited by a single membrane. Electron tomography resolving intracellular three-dimensional organization of organelles showed that clustered melanocores depict contacts with other cellular compartments, such as endoplasmic reticulum and mitochondria. Additionally, immunogold labelling showed that clusters of melanocores do not correspond to autophagosomes or melanophagosomes but that they present, similarly to melanosomes in melanocytes, features of nonacidic, nondegradative organelles. Overall, these observations suggest that melanocore clusters do not correspond to autophagic organelles but represent reservoirs or protective structures for melanosome integrity and function. These results open avenues for understanding the basis of skin pigmentation in different skin color phenotypes.